2011 will be the year for Bouldering!

Hey all,

Last week I discovered a Big Pile of boulders at Les Tielles, Me, Steve, Martin & James were the first on scene to try the new boulders and we weren't dissapointed! It's a cracking venue, it has lots of potential for some hard problems, and best of all it's a suntrap, it was even 'tshirt off' weather down there today!




It was my turn for decision sunday on our first visit and so I have decided to call this place 'The Hyperbolic Boulder Chamber', It's a dbz reference, and with this place and the new bouldering indoor cave Guernsey should definetely be breeding a few Super Saiyans!

Chris S

The Bouldering Cave

Phase one of the Bouldering Cave is now officially complete! In brief it consists of the following

The Brownie Board
This is the board at the most gentle of angles (10-15 deg off vertical).

The V Board of Heros
Same as above but a little steeper, around 25 deg.




The Moon Board
A 40 deg wall which has graded problems set by Ben Moon.

Campus Board
A small board developed for training purposes which consists of wooden rungs at regular intervals.




In addition to the boards the GMC has invested in two huge crash mats. A number of club members' own personal bouldering mats are now stored there so feel free to use these while in the cave. Please remember although all these mats make for a soft landing they do not make you invinsble!

The three main boards have been equiped with 135 brand new holds providing a selection of interesting colour coded problems at a variaty of grades. We are also due another 60 holds soon so expect more problems to be put up shortly. As the Cave is now offically open if you're not a Gold or Silver member you'll have to pay £3.50 for a session, still well worth it in my opinion!

Take it easy

Steve Le F

Lead Comp Results

With the news that the defending champion had decided not to enter the competition was blown wide open!!! That was until Mark Page found a certain someone's score card a the bottom of his van!

With a total of 53 new routes and a maximum of 10 points for an on sight all scores are out of 530. However it should be noted that not everyone managed to get two full sessions on each wall.

Steve Le Feuvre 503

Nathan 370

James Burton 338

Andrea 320

Mark 290

Laura 246 (+1 for best hand writing)

Tom 245

Liz 200

Dean 175

Luke 70

Well done to everyone who took part!

Take it easy

Steve Le F

GMC trip away to Jersey

On the 8th of october an elite team of Guernsey climbers, made up of Andy,Paddy,Chris & Nathan, were dispatched to Jersey to siege their hardest climbs. Well not quite the hardest, but we still had fun.

Arriving in Jersey on the redeye friday morning, we were greeted with torrential rain, Me and paddy were still excited and weren't phased by it however the look on andy's face was just utter dissapointment. After a pit stop at Mcdonalds the rain had stopped and we were ready, a quick bus ride out to Grosnez and we were tied in and ready to climb.

We headed to the Rockscience and Kneecap area and Paddy started us off by cruising a severe with a long runout, I then pressured Andy into leading a hvd which he got up with minimal trouble and we finished off with me getting utterly spanked on a hvs, not the start I was hoping for...

Picture - Paddy pulling through the crux on ' The wrinkled stopper S 4b' at La pilier Dangle on saturday.

We spent the night bivvying behind some shooting range targets and met Nathan in the morning, I could tell Nathan wanted to make the most of his trip and this led to him doing some of the most impressive Leading I've seen him do, 10-15ft up, no gear placed, feet on wet holds, and full on body disco, even I thought Nathan was going to die and this was only on a vs, imagine what it was like when he was on an E1.

Below - Nathan making the awkward mantle on Gentle Retainer Hvs 5a


That night we managed to find a bistro that provided the much needed beer for Andy, we slept alot better that night and managed to wake up at the crack of dawn to head to the pinnacle. Standing beneath it i was in Awe and definetely nervous, A 3pitch Hvs heading straight up the middle but being shot down on a hvs the first day was still fresh in my mind, because the pinnacle was damp from fog, and we were scared we decided to give it a miss, But I've got this route kicking me in the back of my head, I need to return to do it sometime soon!!!
On sunday we only got 3 climbs in at Guns cliff, It's called this because after the war the big German turrets were thrown off the cliff here, and they still lie at the bottom. So to summarize, we had 3 days of sunshine, got alot of routes done, and finished it off with a pizza hut, PERFECT.

If In Doubt Run It Out

The motto "if in doubt run it out" was ringing in my mind as I eyed up my next bit of gear. It was a long way away and I was pumped out of my mind but "thats how you get routes done" I kept telling myself. I set off towards that next bit of gear. Once I arrived there, pump out of my mind, I knew I had made a mistake. There was in fact no gear and that cam I had placed just a few moments ago seemed miles away. I frantically tried to down climb as screamed the words

"FUCK... Chris take... Ah

.................................. h

................................... ...h

................................... ......h

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Of course, your always safe when Chris is belaying and my cam wasn't

that far away but I was crying like a browny on the way down! I was

lowered to the ground untied and Chris took over the lead. He made

easy work of the climbing up to my high point but decided to get

lowered down in a more controlled fashion than I did. I found myself

tying in for the lead again and manage, in very poor style, to finish

the route.

All thats left is a clean ascent... Can't wait..!?!

Steve Le F

Last Club Outdoor Session for 2010

It was sadly that time of year when the club had to make the move indoors and to make things worse on the last outdoor session of the year the tides were crap :( The only logical solution was to set up a super awesome high ropes course and have a BBQ.

The highlight was Marks bowel shaking "Death Slide" and the lowlight... taking it all down in the rain.

Take it easy

Steve Le F

La Congrelle

So... got home from work on Wednesday and Chris persuaded me to put some effort in and check out La Congrelle for the first time. We abseiled in around 7pm and checked out the routes. Decided on an awesome 2pitch HVS - Remington. The first pitch was pretty straight forward for me, but Chris drew the short straw with HUGE amounts of rope drag leading to a scary top out on the second pitch. This made my seconding in the dark a bit harder then I was hoping for, but topped out around 9:30 I think! Cheers Chris!

Nathan C