24 November 2010
Lead Comp Results
16 October 2010
GMC trip away to Jersey
Arriving in Jersey on the redeye friday morning, we were greeted with torrential rain, Me and paddy were still excited and weren't phased by it however the look on andy's face was just utter dissapointment. After a pit stop at Mcdonalds the rain had stopped and we were ready, a quick bus ride out to Grosnez and we were tied in and ready to climb.
We headed to the Rockscience and Kneecap area and Paddy started us off by cruising a severe with a long runout, I then pressured Andy into leading a hvd which he got up with minimal trouble and we finished off with me getting utterly spanked on a hvs, not the start I was hoping for...
Picture - Paddy pulling through the crux on ' The wrinkled stopper S 4b' at La pilier Dangle on saturday.
We spent the night bivvying behind some shooting range targets and met Nathan in the morning, I could tell Nathan wanted to make the most of his trip and this led to him doing some of the most impressive Leading I've seen him do, 10-15ft up, no gear placed, feet on wet holds, and full on body disco, even I thought Nathan was going to die and this was only on a vs, imagine what it was like when he was on an E1.
Below - Nathan making the awkward mantle on Gentle Retainer Hvs 5a
That night we managed to find a bistro that provided the much needed beer for Andy, we slept alot better that night and managed to wake up at the crack of dawn to head to the pinnacle. Standing beneath it i was in Awe and definetely nervous, A 3pitch Hvs heading straight up the middle but being shot down on a hvs the first day was still fresh in my mind, because the pinnacle was damp from fog, and we were scared we decided to give it a miss, But I've got this route kicking me in the back of my head, I need to return to do it sometime soon!!!
On sunday we only got 3 climbs in at Guns cliff, It's called this because after the war the big German turrets were thrown off the cliff here, and they still lie at the bottom. So to summarize, we had 3 days of sunshine, got alot of routes done, and finished it off with a pizza hut, PERFECT.
05 September 2010
If In Doubt Run It Out
All thats left is a clean ascent... Can't wait..!?!
Steve Le F
02 September 2010
Last Club Outdoor Session for 2010
It was sadly that time of year when the club had to make the move indoors and to make things worse on the last outdoor session of the year the tides were crap :( The only logical solution was to set up a super awesome high ropes course and have a BBQ.
The highlight was Marks bowel shaking "Death Slide" and the lowlight... taking it all down in the rain.Take it easy
05 August 2010
La Congrelle
Nathan C
02 August 2010
The GMC have a social, and what happens? Another adventure is planned! Well when I say planned I mean discussed, agreed by a drunken few, never mentioned again, then it takes place. Ladies and gentlemen I present to you The Story of The Havelet Traverse 1st August 2010......
During the course of the social it was mentioned that the tides would be pretty good for an attempt on the Havelet Wall. Many were up for it, but the following day many were not. I wasn’t sure if people were going to be there, or if it would actually take place so on Sunday morning, I thought I’d go for a bike ride and head to the wall to see if anyone else was there, I packed my shoes, a towel, a t-shirt and off I went. All the way into town I was wondering who, if anyone would be there. If no-one was there then my plan was to carry on around the island on my bike and maybe go for 2 laps of it. As I turned off the main road and headed towards Castle Cornet I still wasn’t sure if it would be a goer or not. The I saw them......Greg, Stina, & James B. 5 minutes later Laura turns up with 2 friends from Uni. Ed & Robyn. It was on! We looked at the wall and all decided it was a long, long way but hey we were here so no point messing about, we may as well get on with it.
Greg took the lead and Stina became the official photographer for the days event. Next up was Ed, followed by Laura then Robyn, James B & I took last place on the wall. We all started right up the top of the slipway, Greg, James & me all took the decision to come off just before we got over the water then rest before going for it. I did 25 metres so I “won” the bet with Greg & Nathan so another £50 gets donated to Cancer Research, thanks both!
The tide was still on the up and ledges which looked good were soon getting covered with water and the wave splashing up the wall and covering your legs, surprisingly the water wasn’t that cold. The unwritten rule of the day was that you couldn’t give up on the wall without getting a good dunkin’
I was slipping off the wall for fun at one point, but knew I had to go for it. I had a target in my head then I thought I’d look at the next bits after that. I got to a nice big boulder a few meters over the water, which was still clear, it was a good place to stop and evaluate the next moves, unfortunately I then climbed myself into a dead end, and whilst trying to get back to the big one, my feet slipped and that, was that I was in, top to toe. I did jump back on the wall a few more times, but with the wind blowing and the rain starting to come in, I decided enough was enough. I had completed my challenge, I had raised another £50, and I knew we would be doing it again before the end of the summer so...
between the rusty chain and the ladder.
As usual folks plenty more pictures on the Facebook group pages.
14 July 2010
The Crocker Cronicles!
Martin Crocker on Salt 'n Wound E5 6b
Martin Crocker has kindly given the GMC his route descriptions which detail many routes, up to E6 6b, which he climbed during a number of trips to Guernsey.
All his route descriptions can be found on the New Routes section of the club website. If your after inspiration its a good place to find it.
See you out there!
Steve Le F
07 June 2010
Two Projects Sent!
I wasn't the only one bouldering hard. Chris Smith had just sent his project at the Pecqueries boulder. "He's not Queer, he's just a Hobbit" takes the undercut pinch rail to the right of "The Classic" and could well be Guernsey's hardest boulder problem weighing in at V7.
After many sessions the barrel project finally went to give "Potential Difference". As for the grade I have no idea as its probably the hardest thing I've done and therefore hard for me to assign a number to it.
See you out there!
Steve Le F
02 June 2010
The Adventure of Petit Port
After we bailed on the initial attempt we’ve been talking about going back and finishing the job. We’ve arranged days but each time decided against it, too cold, too wet, looks like rain etc. Messages sent via Facebook and we agreed we would go for it on Saturday. The day started looking miserable and wet I sent a message “Let’s do it. 1300” I text’d Chris, he replied saying he would rather do anything else but the chimney, so I asked him if was coming or not, his reply was along the lines of “**** it, I’ll come” We were on!
we quickly geared up, and Nathan decided to lead the 1st pitch the chimney was dirty and wetter than last time we were here, and was full of fly’s. Nathan started well and got to the point where he bailed last time really quickly with no issues, then the inevitable happened; DISCO LEG, this was like no disco leg I’ve seen on Nathan before, it was so bad I could feel the rope shaking through the belay device. But fair play to him, he stuck with it and got over the chockstone, and then I heard some rather strange squeaks coming from Nathan I did shout up and ask if one the Bikini Boulder’s was already up there so weird were the noises. The call came that he was safe, so I took him off belay and got out of the chimney for a few seconds just to breath some fresh air as it was horrid in the chimney with the fly’s all around you.
I started to climb, clearing the gear as I went, this time remembering to put it on the right so that it wouldn't get stuck as I did the headlong dive onto the top of the stone. However this time I tried a different approach and tried to get into the tunnel more elegantly, I failed. This time I nearly managed to get my entire body stuck. But I managed to get in and Nathan commented it was more entertaining watching me from the top then it was from the bottom.
Chris joined us in the tunnel and we were where we were the last time we came. As we walked up the tunnel, Chris was leading the way then he came across his nemesis PIGEONS, they were still there and they were waiting for Chris. Eventually and probably due to the noises Chris was making the pigeons flew off and we were up at the top end then Chris pointed out why he had wanted to do this on a dry day, the start of the 2nd pitch was soaked. we looked around for t a belay point, but the only option was to belay from the top of the tunnel roof, so I scrambled up a took a look, there was a solid enough ledge to stand / belay from but getting there looked a little tricky. There was a narrow ledge to walk on, but as I tested it for weight it started to crumble, it was basically just collected mud. So the only way onto the ledge was by bridging across the chimney and going for it. As I said the ledge was solid, and when we got there realised it would have been an easier escape then the one we used last time, as we had a big boulder for a sling and steep but not vertical slope down to the outside of the chimney and down onto the beach.
Chris was leading the 2nd pitch, and off he went. Just as he started so did the rain. Fortunately it was blowing in off the sea so we weren’t getting the full brunt of it, just enough to make us damp. Chris was having a tough time placing gear, as the rock on the 2nd pitch was just as flaky as the 1st if not more so. But he managed to get in some friends on the right and micro’s on the left. Each piece of gear was being tested thoroughly as the rock was so flaky. After a while Chris was on a ramp and about to go chockstone weaving. I did hear him say something about it being polished but didn’t really grasp what he was saying. Chris carried on up and then we lost sight of him as he went behind the 1st chockstone. We got a shout from Chris about how much rope we had left and as we hadn’t passed the ½ way point, Chris was going to set up the belay and I would clip into the rope and Nathan climb on the ends.
I started the 2nd pitch and started to take the gear out, I was pretty cold by now as we had been standing on the ledge for quite a while. However I did manage the climb upto the ramp, and only kicked off the one lump of rock. When I got on the ledge I realised what Chris had meant by “polished” it was smooth + wet = lethal! I could hardly stand up on it. Then it was time to go weaving, Chris had followed the route description and had gone in and out of the chockstones. I managed to get up to the 1st chockstone quite easily, but couldn’t get the nut out Chris had placed there. I tried but was losing the feeling in my leg due to the way I was positioned so had to move on. I stood on the chockstone and waited a few seconds for the blood to go back into my leg so I could carry on. Getting onto the next chockstone was slightly more difficult, primarily because I’m 6’4” and Chris isn’t. It was an awkward move for me but I got there. By this time my legs were pumped and I couldn’t have got much further. As I poked my head around the chockstone I saw Chris on a ledge and started looking to see how I could get round him. The Chris gave me the good news “I need you to sit there, as there’s no room up here” . Great!! So I sat down and got as comfortable as you could sitting on a rock lodged between 2 cliff faces about 50 metres above the sea, and tied into the system.
Nathan started climbing and soon was on the middle chockstone just below me. At this point I did think it was a shame there was no-one on the beach to take a picture as Chris on the ledge, me on the chockstone and Nathan just below on another one would have made a great pic. As Nathan was standing up on, it was decided he would take the lead for the last pitch as the belay Chris had set up was bomber, and it would save time if he just carried on climbing, so off he went.
Chris said he would go next and I would follow up. As the rope tightened we responded with the calls but we really couldn’t hear anything from Nathan. I was tight on one rope and Chris was on the other, so Chris undid the belay and began to climb the last pitch. As we couldn’t hear we agreed that when he got to the belay he would give 3 sharp tugs on the rope to signal me to climb and I would respond with the same to say I was climbing. Not to long after I got the 3 tugs so I started to climb, this pitch was unlike any other climbing I had done. There was rock there but it was overgrown with gorse, ivy, brambles, ferns and just about any other vegetation you would normally find on the cliffs. I could see the rock but only below all of the vegetation. Then I heard Nathan talking to Chris, “I can hear him grunting he must be climbing”, only the first 10 – 15 metres were like this, and eventually it flattened out into a gentle slope, with fern on both sides of a well worn path, Nathan had found a belay tree to set up on and that was it the chimney was ours. Wasn’t it?
Whilst Chris and Nathan were dismantling the belay I said I’d look for the walk out and see where we could go. I followed a path between the ferns and just kept walking, in and out of gorse bushes, Then the path stopped. I backtracked and followed another path, then it stopped. Backtracked again, nothing. A small scramble and we should be back on the path, nope, nothing there. Chris and Nathan came up the slope with the gear, then we started to discuss if we would need to climb the white wall and ab down the other side in order to get out. Nathan recognized where he had set the belay up from his last abseil so we had a little 2 metre solo, scramble down the other side, walk around the wall. Up on another rock, turn right, cliff path. As we had left all of our stuff down at beach level we then had to walk down the steps to the beach, pick everything up then walk back up the steps. But it was over.
Petit Port Chimney
First Ascent –
FH Grenfell & Brother – 1908
Second Ascent –
Chris Smith, Nathan Crabb, Dean Cooper - 29/05/10
A true classic adventure, which overtime will increase in the telling, and the rock will get flakier, and the rain will get heavier, & the wind will be stronger as the story is retold.
I suppose the question is would I repeat it? Yes I think I would, on a beautiful sunny day, if only to sit on the top chockstone and feel the sun on my face, looking over Petit Port bay hearing the waves crash against the shoreline, knowing that I was part of the team which freed this route after more than 100 years. - Special
14 April 2010
10th / 11th April
Luckily for team 'send stuff' we had foreigner Adam over who doesn't back down so easily like myself, he spent the day trying his project but after he was done he had a quick top-rope attempt on what looked to be a blank direct start to 'Corridors of Power' E3, it turned out to be not so blank of holds and Adam was off before I even had time to get him on belay! Although the route was easy(ish) climbing (easy if you're Adam) Adam described it as 'bold', his first estimate is possibly E4 5c, my first estimate is that I NEVER want to climb one of Adam's E4's!
Also doing the team proud was Mark Page who led 'Rat Trap' seconded by Dean a.k.a the 'Chimney master', the 'Chimney Hunter' or the 'Chimney Crusher', and Olly and James W continued to gain experience & sunburn doing the first pitch of 'Shot in the dark'. Dean was especially pleased to make it to the top although he did leave half the gear in as he was in such a rush to top out! Mark found the route amenable but would like to see an ascent by someone not as tall as himself to see if it is the 'desperate struggle' the guidebook says it is!
Day 2 we headed to the main area at Mont Herault but first off Mark gave us a tour of the island, in this 2 hour tour we saw some good potential bouldering and a very nice-looking wall that Mark had discovered and named 'Tiger Wall', if anyone's hungry for F.A's then they should head there, or anywhere in Guernsey will probably do.
First off I tried 'Cosmo's Crack' E3 but fell off, Adam then went on to send it with ease. Big Nathan led 'Jam Sandwich' VS, for anyone who's never watched Nathan lead climb I highly recommend it, his disco leg is ridiculous. The route was seconded by Mark and little Nathan. I then sent 'Reptile', the island's first E2. To finish off, Adam tried 'Joker's Arete' E3, however the problem with this route is it is mostly protected by a rusty old peg which is probably 24 years old! Although this didn't put Adam off climbing the route, it did stop him trying his hardest on the crux so in the end he backed down (getting into some crazy positions downclimbing), it was still very impressive to watch!
as usual pictures are on facebook
See you all next weekend, Chris.
08 April 2010
Font - Easter Weekend
28 March 2010
2010 GMC Indoor Leading Competition - Results!
2010 GMC Indoor Leading Competition - Results!
Facebook & Google. How harmful can they be?
Whilst Nathan was climbing Chris was telling me how he was glad it was Nathan's ropes, brand new gear and draws we were using. Did I mention it was muddy in the tunnel, and Chris was basically sitting on Nathan's ropes. Nathan cleared the route easily and picked up a few bits of gear I had left and cleared a couple more holds with his feet. We hadn't got a clue what time it was apart from after 3:30. Looking down from the tunnel you could see the tide coming in and it looked massive. We took a walk up the tunnel as far as we could, but decided we would leave the chimney, as described by the brothers, and come back for it when we had more time. The belay Chris had set up was all on micro placements, and we were not sure how good they would be when we abseiled down, so we started looking for better placements. Then we found out how flaky and loose the rock was. Nathan climbed up onto the roof of the tunnel to see if we could place gear there, no luck. Could we throw a rope over the roof, no, we wouldn't be able to get it on the other side. Could we place further up the tunnel, no, the rock was to loose, Nathan tied back in to see if we could get something in the roof, and also to tie a sling around one of the chockstones as a backup. After spending some time checking out the possibilities he managed to get a big hex in the roof of the tunnel. It was bombproof. A quick and smooth absail down, and we were standing at the end of the cave, with the tide washing around our feet. At the bottom Chris said he thought we would be abseiling into water and would have to swim for it, I told him the same thought had gone through my mind and I was bracing myself for it. All in all a great afternoon's climbing and a really good laugh. Glad I was there and can't wait to go back and finish the chimney. As Nathan commented "a classic adventure. Many more to come this summer"
More pictures on Facebook in the next few days
22 March 2010
Little Chris back with a bang!
Back inside the zawn, Big Nathan dispelled the 'Desparate struggle' myth to make a swift ascent of 'Rat Trap' VS 4c. Steve then led 'Interstellar Overdrive' E1 5b * in good style, breaking a brick-sized foothold off in the process - Helmets are cool kids! Dean did his first outdoor route - 'Chockstone Chimney' HS 4b on toprope. Finally, Little Chris cooly led 'Hades' E3 5c *** - the route immortallised on the back of the guidebook, and 'The finest pitch in Guernsey' apparently. It was the first ascent by a local in many, many years as far as we know. Well done to all, and thanks to those wh obelayed and seconded. Lots more photos on the FB group by the end of the week!
17 March 2010
Climbing @ Gull Zawn last saturday
Whilst Dave has been off skiing, his bosses sent his mate Adam over to cover for him. Dave had said he was 'quite good ;-)', so we decided to take him down to Gull Zawn to sample some of the highest quality routes the island has to offer. James W and Olly came out for their first taste of real Guernsey rock too. The day started a bit cool, but the sun soon came out to give a fantastic afternoon of climbing - Adam led the 3-star routes of 'Rock of Ages', 'After the Goldrush', and 'Hades' in good style (seconded and toproped by most of us). James and Olly enjoyed the thrutchy delights of 'Chockstone chimney' on toprope so much that they each climbed it twice, and James spent every spare minute trying to wear out Nathan's abseil rope by sliding down it! The day finished with a couple of beers at the Rockmount watching the sun go down, what a top day out! Plenty of pictures on Facebook as usual.
Red Crag -> Le Gouffre Scramble
a bit of a delay on the blog here, but some of us had a good scramble from Red Crag @ La Corbiere to the Waterfall @ Le Gouffre on Valentines day (how romantic!). Luke has done an excellent blog at http://climber.lukecummins.me.uk/?p=8 , and there's loads more photos on the Facebook group as well. Highlights included guinea pigs, a little paddle,a squeeze chimney, two waterfalls, leaping a gully and finding a box of ammunition!
Mark
23 February 2010
Keep The Faith
We arrived at the relatively unknown bouldering location of Rousse armed with a stack of bouldering mats taller than Luke. The aim, to establish some more problems and to hopefully tick off a hard project which had beaten Chris, Nathan and myself last year.
After a quick warm up on some of the easier problems Nathan and I started to work the project and it wasn’t long before we’d done all the moves but could we link them together? The answer was yes! We named this large overhanging rounded arĂȘte “Keep the Faith”.
The group’s attention then turned to finding some new lines. Amongst these was a text box introduction to lay backing and quality area with a number of sit starts of varying difficulties.
One thing is for sure… we’ve only scratched the surface!
Steve Le F
20 February 2010
Bouldering Competition 2010!
Here are the results for the bouldering competition held last Thursday, congratulations to both Steve and Andrea on winning their respective sections and well done to all who took part!!!
Female Category | Score / 42 |
Andrea | 28 |
Kim | 6 |
Natalie | 3 |
Holly | ? |
Dana | ? |
Male Category | Score / 42 |
Steve Le Feuvre | 41 |
Nathan Crabb | 38 |
Nathan Fallaize | 34 |
James Burton | 28 |
Dave Godley | 24 |
Christophe Fierdepied | 23 |
Andy Charnley | 21 |
Goldie | 7 |
10 February 2010
Micro Guide To The Pequries Boulder
East coast scramble
20 January 2010
1st scramble of the Decade
“Sounds interesting” was Howard’s reply to my text suggesting the “Mont Herault -> La Carriere Torode” scramble on Sunday. Glorious weather saw Howard, Andrea and I have a thoroughly enjoyable afternoon of gully jumping, speleology, boulder hopping, beachcombing and slithering through squeezes! We successfully negotiated the tricky ‘Ali’s passage’ and Howard even had a go at the ‘high squeeze’ on the Pierced Stack. His feet were virtually all the way through, but apparently he was too muscular to make it all the way, so it still awaits a ‘first extrusion’ if anyone fancies a go! Lots of photos on the club facebook pages, but here’s a taster:-